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Anyone who is at least a little engaged or interested in mountaineering, probably knows such a famous person as Reinhold Messner. This person is a true legend, some achievements, which so far no one could and did not dare to repeat.

short biography

Born in northern Italy, in a town called Brixen. This city is located in the Alps, which is why Reinhold has such a love of the mountains. Also, proximity to them taught him to climb perfectly on them, and also helped to better know them and study behavior.

This man in his entire life conquered many mountain peaks, and he made his first ascent in 1970 as a student. Also at this age, namely 26 years old, he ended up in the Himalayas with his younger brother Gunther. Their goal was to climb Nangaparbat. He made his last ascent in 1986, after which he took up other dangerous trips.

Reinhold messner
Conquered peaks

All the achievements of Messner cannot be overestimated, since they are sometimes simply unattainable. His climber career began in 1970 with his younger brother. They went on an expedition led by Herligkoffer. On the way to the top, the team had many disagreements and disputes, which led to sad consequences. Having reached almost the very top, the weather began to deteriorate, and it was necessary to solve something. Messner himself decided to climb further on his own, and the people remaining below had to give him a signal with a signal rocket, after they learned about whether the weather would worsen or not. It so happened that the missiles were confused, but Reinhold continued on. When it was a bit frustrating, his brother also followed him. Both were upstairs without the proper equipment for the descent, namely the rope. On the descent, Messner’s brother fell off the wall and died. Reinhold tried to find him all night, while the other members of the expedition were already far from him. Having been in the cold for a long time without a tent and other necessary things for warming, he received a frostbite, and as a result lost 7 toes.

By 1971, he managed to pass all the difficult walls of the western and eastern Alps. The next peak was 8 thousand. Manaslu. There were also victims on this expedition. Then came the ascent after the ascent. In the 75th on Gasherbrum I in the Alpine style, without oxygen and devices, together with Habeler on the Hidden peak, in the 78th Everest conquered at a fast pace.

Also in 1978, Messner conquered his next fear, that is how he describes his act. He alone, on a wall never before passed, climbed Nangaparbat. Then in the 79th he conquered the harsh peak K-2.

But in 1980, he committed an incredible act. He appeared to climb Everest solo, that is, alone. It was in the spring. But then he learns that this is the same thing, a Japanese climber is going to make a Japanese climber next winter. In order to be the first, he decides to do this at the end of summer, during the monsoon period. This is not just a period, this is a time when the mountains have very bad weather, strong winds piercing through and through. In general, at this time, mountaineering is prohibited at such a height and is very life-threatening. But Messner did this, and so far during the monsoon period no one dared to repeat this act.

Then there were other eight-thousanders: Shisha Pangma in the 81st, in the 82nd Kanchenjunga, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II, in the 83rd paves a new path to Cho-Oyu. By 1984, mountaineering had become a kind of sports competition, and the desire to be the first to conquer all the peaks with a height of over 8 thousand meters. The real race began. But Messner decided not to take much risks, and at a calm pace, without unnecessary frenzy, he quickly climbed to the remaining 4 peaks and became the first to conquer all eight-thousanders. This happened between 1984 and 1986. The remaining peaks included Jaulagiri, Annapurna, Lhotse, Makalu.


Thus, Messner became the first in many things in mountaineering. By his 43 years, when he descended from the last peak, he had many ascents, about 3 thousand. Also, about 100 open new routes, more than 20 ascents to the highest peaks, as well as many risky solos.

He made a huge contribution to the development and popularization of mountaineering. On his account more than 70 books about his climbs and mountaineering tips. After that, he began to conquer deserts, visited the North and South Poles, and many other long walks.

He was awarded the Mountaineering Award in 2010. It is called the LifeTime Achievement Piolet d’Or. And in 2018 he became a laureate of the Princess of Asturias Prize.

In general, this is a man of incredible physical strength, unimaginable stamina and strong fortitude. He should admire and listen to his advice, because not everyone is capable of this.

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